Explore the real places in Naples that appear in My Brilliant Friend by Elena Ferrante. Each location on the map shows what happens there in the novel, the real history of the place, and what's there today. Featured locations include Via dei Tribunali, Elementary School, Don Achille's Apartment, The Shoemaker's Shop, The Public Gardens and 5 more.
Historic center — The old neighborhood
Elena and Lila grow up in this dense, working-class neighborhood where everyone knows everyone's business. The courtyard becomes a stage for childhood games, adolescent rivalries, and family dramas. Elena's family lives in one of the cramped apartments, and she observes the complex social hierarchies and vendettas that govern neighborhood life. The physical environment of narrow streets and crowded buildings shapes the girls' early understanding of their world's limitations.
Via dei Tribunali is one of Naples' three main decumani (ancient Roman streets) in the historic center. Dating back to Greek and Roman times, it has been a densely populated residential area for over two millennia, home to working-class Neapolitans for centuries.
The street remains a bustling residential and commercial area in Naples' UNESCO World Heritage historic center. Many buildings still house multiple families in small apartments, maintaining the neighborhood atmosphere Ferrante described.
Visit: Via dei Tribunali Historic District (historic site)
Neighborhood school — Where brilliance first emerges
Maestra Oliviero recognizes both Elena's and Lila's exceptional intelligence here. Lila demonstrates her ability to read and write before being formally taught, stunning the teacher and other students. Elena works desperately to keep up with her brilliant friend, establishing the competitive dynamic that will define their relationship. The school represents the first glimpse of a world beyond the neighborhood's narrow confines.
Italian elementary education became compulsory in 1877, with local schools serving working-class neighborhoods like this one. In the 1950s, when the novel is set, these schools were often under-resourced but provided the crucial foundation for social mobility.
Public elementary schools continue to serve Naples' historic neighborhoods, though educational opportunities have expanded significantly since the 1950s. Many schools in the area now offer more resources and support for disadvantaged students.
Upper floor — The neighborhood's dark presence
Don Achille Carracci lives in the building's upper floors, inspiring terror throughout the neighborhood. Elena and Lila believe he has stolen their dolls and venture up the dark stairwell to confront him—a pivotal moment of childhood courage. His presence looms over the community as a figure of violence and power. His eventual murder sets off a chain of events that affects multiple families, including the Solaras.
In post-war Naples, apartment buildings often housed both respectable families and those connected to criminal activities. The physical structure of these buildings, with dark staircases and multiple floors, created natural hierarchies and territorial divisions.
Similar apartment buildings throughout Naples' historic center continue to house multiple generations of families. The architecture and social dynamics Ferrante described remain recognizable in many neighborhoods.
Ground floor — Fernando Cerullo's workplace
Lila's father Fernando works as a shoemaker in this cramped shop. Lila shows her brilliance by designing revolutionary shoe designs, dreams of transforming her family's business, and clashes with her father over her ambitions. The shop represents both the neighborhood's traditional trades and Lila's frustrated desire to break free from inherited limitations. Her violent confrontation with her father over continuing school happens here.
Small artisan shops like shoemaker workshops were common in Naples' working-class neighborhoods, representing traditional trades passed down through generations. These businesses operated on thin margins and depended on neighborhood clientele.
While many traditional artisan shops have closed, some shoemakers and craftspeople still operate in Naples' historic center, though they now often cater to tourists as well as locals.
Villa Comunale — Escape from the neighborhood
Elena ventures here during her relationship with Antonio, experiencing a sense of freedom away from the neighborhood's watchful eyes. The gardens represent a space of possibility and beauty beyond the cramped streets of home. Elena's walks here allow her to imagine different futures and contemplate her changing relationship with her origins as she moves toward higher education.
Villa Comunale, created in the 1780s, has long been Naples' primary public park along the waterfront. It provided green space and recreational opportunities for residents across social classes, though access and comfort varied by social position.
Villa Comunale remains Naples' main public park, a popular destination for families, joggers, and tourists. The park offers views of Vesuvius and the bay, maintaining its role as a respite from the city's density.
Visit: Villa Comunale (park)
Neighborhood celebration hall — Lila's triumph
At Gigliola Spagnuolo's wedding, Lila appears in her self-designed dress and shoes, stunning the neighborhood with her beauty and sophistication. Elena watches with a mixture of pride and jealousy as her friend becomes the center of attention. The wedding showcases the neighborhood's social dynamics and Lila's ability to transform herself, while also highlighting Elena's growing sense of being left behind.
Neighborhood wedding celebrations in 1950s Naples were major community events, often held in local halls or restaurants. These gatherings reinforced social bonds and hierarchies within tight-knit working-class communities.
Wedding venues throughout Naples continue to serve local communities, though celebrations have evolved with changing social customs and economic conditions.
Island getaway — Elena's awakening
Elena spends a transformative summer here with the Sarratore family, experiencing her first taste of middle-class life and intellectual conversation. She falls in love with Nino Sarratore and begins to understand possibilities beyond her neighborhood origins. The island setting provides physical and emotional distance from Naples, allowing Elena to reimagine herself and her future. Her time here marks a crucial step in her journey toward higher education and a different life.
Ischia has been a resort destination since Roman times, known for its thermal springs and natural beauty. In the post-war period, it became increasingly popular with middle-class Italian families as a summer retreat from Naples and other cities.
Ischia remains one of Italy's most popular island destinations, combining beaches, thermal spas, and scenic landscapes. The island attracts both international tourists and Italian families continuing the tradition of summer holidays.
Visit: Ischia Beaches (landmark)
Liceo classico — Elena's path forward
Elena continues her education here while Lila does not, creating the first major divergence in their parallel lives. Elena struggles with Latin and Greek but perseveres, driven partly by her competition with her absent friend. The school represents Elena's entry into a more privileged world and her gradual separation from neighborhood life. Her academic success here opens the possibility of university education.
The liceo classico represented the most prestigious track in Italian secondary education, emphasizing classical languages and literature. These schools traditionally served middle and upper-class students, making Elena's attendance a significant achievement for someone from her background.
Classical high schools continue to operate throughout Naples, still considered prestigious preparation for university study. Educational access has broadened significantly since the 1950s, though inequalities persist.
Piazza dei Martiri area — Power and intimidation
The Solara brothers, Marcello and Michele, operate from this establishment, representing the neighborhood's criminal element and its potential for violence. Their pursuit of Lila creates tension and danger, while their wealth and power showcase an alternative path to success outside legitimate work. The bar serves as a gathering place for those connected to less respectable activities in the area.
Bars and cafes in Naples have traditionally served as social centers and sometimes as fronts for other activities. In the post-war period, some establishments were connected to emerging organized crime networks that would become more powerful in subsequent decades.
The Piazza dei Martiri area is now one of Naples' upscale shopping and dining districts. While some traditional bars remain, the area has been significantly gentrified and commercialized.
Visit: Piazza dei Martiri (landmark)
Neighborhood boundary — Crossing into danger
Elena and Lila cross the railroad tracks to retrieve their dolls, venturing into forbidden territory beyond their neighborhood's safe boundaries. This childhood adventure represents their first act of rebellion and their willingness to face unknown dangers together. The tracks serve as both a physical and symbolic barrier, separating their known world from the mysterious and potentially dangerous areas beyond.
Railroad lines have traditionally divided Naples into distinct neighborhoods, often separating different social classes and creating natural boundaries. These divisions were particularly significant in the post-war period when urban development was less integrated.
Railroad infrastructure continues to shape Naples' urban geography, though some lines have been modernized or rerouted. The social boundaries they once represented have evolved with urban development and changing demographics.
More by Elena Ferrante: All Elena Ferrante books
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